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59
سه شنبه 24 ارديبهشت 1387
for
culinary
professionals
1
The Class Of 2006
4
Editorial
5
Northwest Notes
5
National Notes
5
Special Seasonings
6
Birth Announcements
6
Ingredient Substitution
7
Food Finds
7
Northern Exposure
8
Beverage Business
9
Calendar
11
Talk of the Table
Entrees
February
2006
Continued on page 2
The Class Of 2006
Northwest Stir-Canandaigua Wine Young Lions by Mina Williams
Category: Adam Sappington Restaurant Chef,
Executive Chef/Chef-Owner 34 years-old Wildwood, Portland
Evolution is the word that describes this Young Lion. Evolving as
a chef, or with his menu full of the seasonal bounty presented at
the back door of the restaurant, Adam adapts with chameleonlike
tenacity. “I feel myself evolving daily and gaining a greater
knowledge of the resources that the Northwest has to offer to my
cooking and to my life,” he says.
Adam insists that the restaurant keep true to its sustainable cuisine
foundation, as prescribed by founding chef Cory Schreiber. He
presents dishes that are straight-forward and honest using ingredients
from local farms and ranches. “We are a farm-direct restaurant,”
he explains. “We honor the relationships and support our farmer and rancher partners.
Additionally, we make a commitment to not manipulate products.”
His passion for the regional and seasonal flair that his restaurant stems from his Missouri
roots. While cooking with his mother and visiting area farmers’ markets with his grandmother,
he was struck with the bounty and beauty of farm fresh ingredients. Later, as a professional
culinarian, he set out to find a thriving agriculture area that would provide opportunity to hone
his skills. He found that area here in the Pacific Northwest.
Adam graduated from Western Culinary Institute and started cooking on the line at Wildwood.
“It was, and still is an eye-opening experience,” he says. “I knew that I found a niche with
Cory.” He became Sous Chef and was named Restaurant Chef in 2004.
His volunteer activities center around sustainable agriculture and ecological education. Just a
few of his passions include: The Sauvie Island Center, a non-profit advocating for food, farming
and the land; Three Rivers Land Conservancy, a group that protects natural areas, scenic
and recreational areas, wildlife habitat, and historic lands in greater Portland; and Garden of
Wonders an in-school program that integrates class learning with gardening. Adam is one of
five chefs who cook lunch for elementary school children in Portland.
2 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
FRONT BURNER
Category: Jason Stratton, Sous Chef Café Juanita,
Sous Chef 26 years-old Kirkland
Many agree with the phrase “food is fashion,” but Jason Stratton
says that food is poetry. After studying poetry at Evergreen State
College in Olympia, Wash. and working his way through notable
kitchens including Le Gourmand, Avenue One and 727 Pine it is
easy to see why he has that belief.
“For me, it’s the place where I put focus. The spot that others
pass up,” explains Stratton. “Food and poetry are all about sharing
intimate moments in the busy life. Stopping to take a moment,
that’s where life begins for me. That’s why I like working in an open
kitchen. I like to see how guests respond. It’s the way I find the best way to live in the world.”
Since becoming sous chef a year ago, Stratton has participated in a bevy of community and
charity events Café Juanita’s chef/owner, Holly Smith, champions. Whether at the event, or
backing up and prepping ingredients at the Kirkland, Wash. restaurant Stratton sees these
activities as an outreach that is part of his communion with guests and the poetry of food.
Stratton’s ongoing mission at Café Juanita is to reach out to new purveyors, particularly
connecting with farmers. “There are many great farmers who have never been able to sell to
restaurants before,” he says.
Publisher:
Bruce Rutkin
Editor:
Mina Williams
Managing Editor:
Christine Loos
Contributors:
Alicia Comstock Arter
Sarah Acker
Kathy Casey
Patrick Haight
Stu Heller
Michael Hood
David LeClaire
Natalie MacLean
Ryan Magarian
Tim O’Brien
Paul Paz
Sales:
Bruce Rutkin
Phone 206-498-3381
Design Director:
Diane M. Chaudiere
Publishing, Business &
Editorial Office:
Williams & Partners
110 West Dayton Street,
Suite 102
Edmonds, WA 98020
Web Address:
www.nwstir.com
Northwest Stir is published
ten times per year by
Williams & Partners,
110 West Dayton Street,
Suite 102, Edmonds,
WA 98020.
Phone 425.771.8082.
Subscription rates:
$40 per year.
For subscriptions register
at www.nwstir.com.
Advertising rates available
upon request.
Although every precaution
is taken to ensure accuracy of
published materials,
Northwest Stir cannot be held
responsible for opinion expressed
or facts supplied by its authors.
Staff Continued from page 1
Category: Tysan Pierce, Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine Bar,
Sommelier 31 years-old Portland
While most 24-year-olds were contemplating vocational choices, Tysan
was emerging from the International Sommelier’s Guild freshly minted
with diploma in hand. Once the youngest instructor for the Guild’s Wine
Fundamentals class, she is now sommelier at Southpark Seafood Grill
& Wine Bar continuing steadfast in her mission to take the pomp and
mysticism out of wine. “Wine should be enjoyed,” she explains, “not
placed on a pedestal and removed from people’s real experience.”
One year out of Vasser, Tysan’s wine curiosity was sparked while
working in New York City restaurants. She considered the possibility of
living in a wine region and moved to Portland because she discovered
it was one of a few places where producers of world-class wines are only 45-minutes away
from the city. She directed the wine program for the Heathman Restaurant, overseeing a
500-bottle cellar and now serves as full time sommelier shepherding Southpark’s extensive
wine program.
Giving back to the community is part of Tysan’s fabric. She donates her time as Wine Director
for the Metropolitan Family Service’s Classic Wines Auction, teaches classes for the International
Sommelier’s Guild and is the Maitre D’ and member of the Board of Directors for the
International Pinot Noir Celebration.
Continued on page 3
3 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
FRONT BURNER
Category: Chris Heldridge, General Manager
Manager 31 years-old Canlis, Seattle
For this Young Lion it’s all in the
details. “Details make the restaurant,”
Chris explains. “Food, wine and
service are presented in every restaurant.
But, at Canlis, the experience
must feel like a genuine experience.
All the correct details must converge
to create that experience. A hundred
details go into an evening, if you miss one it diminishes the
feeling. Our guests have expectations. Our job is to deliver
on those expectations and exceed each and every time.
Every day is game day.”
As he straddles the operations of the wine department,
the kitchen, the office and the front-of-the-house, Chris
maintains his role as a hands-on manager who leads by
example. While the floor is the focus for this extroverted
general manager, he spends a lot of time with the kitchen
staff and the wine department along with the dining room
staff to maintain a team environment and keep the lines
of communication open. All this is done with an effort to
uphold the dedication to the details.
“It’s great working for Canlis because it doesn’t feel like a
55 year-old restaurant,” Chris explains. “We have a young,
energetic team and we are always on the lookout for new
ideas. Without a big corporate structure, we have the ability
to change things as the needs arise. We don’t get mired
down, we simply adjust accordingly.”
“Having Mark (Canlis) in the restaurant is great,” says
Chris. “He is fabulous with the guests and it frees me up to
concentrate on more of the business aspects of restaurant.
It is also nice to always have a Canlis on the floor every
night. Our guests like to be greeted by a Canlis.
Chris, a Seattle native, found his food roots growing up with
a European-born mother and a father with an extensive
wine cellar. Following his first career as a financial analyist
for a merger and acquisition company he, became a part
time wine steward at Canlis in 1999. For management
experience he took an entry level manager position with
Piatti, still occasionally taking a shift at Canlis from time to
time, before becoming a full time maitre d’ at Canlis.
Category: Amon Mende, Bar Manager
Bar Manager 30 years-old Tini Biggs & Watertown,
Seattle
Amon is the epitome of on the
job schooling. “I learn from
those in the industry,” he says.
“I watch everything and work
at learning something new
every day.” Starting his career
in Spokane at an Irish Pub, he
immediately took to the action
of the bar, interfacing with
patrons and multi-tasking. When
the chance came to move to Seattle, helping a friend open
a new Irish Pub, he seized the opportunity.
Entering into the spirits arena, Amon moved to Zig Zag,
deepened his knowledge of blends and brands while exploring
the business side of the business. There he learned
that things that sit on the shelf don’t make money. It was
under the tutelage of a co-worker with 30 years experience
that the Young Lion discerned the differences of 80
Bourbons and 70 Scotches while refining the art of crafting
the classic cocktail. This knowledge is the base for Amon’s
culinary approach to cocktail crafting.
“There is a large selection of spirits and you have to know
how to mix them and match flavor profiles,” he says. “In
developing new specialty drinks you have to research and
keep an eye on industry trends.” He points to this spring’s
focus on fresh squeezed juices and fresh garnishes. “We
are shopping at the Pike Place Market alongside chefs.”
At Tini Biggs and Watertown, Amon has refined ordering,
stocking, inventory, keeping an eye on cost controlling
and scheduling. However, it’s the cocktails that still inspire
him. “Classic cocktails from the pre-Prohibition era are the
anchor. From those the progressive creations happen that
are in keeping with current trends.”
The biggest lesson he has learned is that perfection is
everything, particularly when it comes to “building” a
cocktail. “Some patrons might scoff at a bartender using
a jigger to measure ingredients,” he says. “But a perfect
cocktail comes from accurate measures. Then everything
is blended to perfection.”
Continued from page 2
4 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
EDITORIAL
Just Missing
Dorothy…
and Toto Too!
Time again for the announcement of
NorthWest Stir’s Young Lions Awards
and this is truly a standout class. As
a collection they emulate the heart,
brains and courage it takes to be
in this industry, and they excel very successfully at it. Take
a look at our 2006 pride of Young Lions and see how these
professionals emulate the best of qualities that makes them
a standout from their peers. The only thing missing from this
Oz-like group is Dorothy!
Another standout in the industry, says Beverage Business
columnist Tim O’Brien, is Northwest wines and winemakers.
With the youth of the vineyards, uncertainty keeps predictability
off balance. Read his column to help unravel the quest for
the very next trend.
As many of you know, I am an equipment junkie. While I find
nothing more flavorful that flesh charred over an open flame,
I do applaud equipment that can make your jobs easier,
cheaper or better. Put all the innovations under one roof and
that is a standout event that just might blast me out of the office.
The National Restaurant Association has just announced
its Kitchen Innovation Award winners and plans to showcase
these time, effort and money savers at the Show May 20 to 23
in Chicago. Just a few items that caught my eye is Beverage
Air’s Miracool Series Cooler, with a condenser and compressor
integrated into a removable cartridge at the bottom of the
unit; Cooper Atkins’ Coolit-Rite thermometer with a programmable
timer that retains data; and a “smart” combi oven from
Cleveland Range that automatically tailors humidity to the
type and quantity of product even for crispy items.
Mina Williams, editor
editor@nwstir.com
425.771.8082
Eddie Montoya Passes
Christopher Edward “Eddie” Montoya, chef of West Seattle’s Ovio Bistro, died unexpectedly of unknown causes while
visiting family in New Mexico on Christmas Eve morning. He was 27.
Montoya’s creativity won him widespread praise. “He just has an amazing palate. It was instinctual. He put together
flavors that nobody would ever really think of ... and it always worked,” said Ovio’s co-owner Ellie Chin. From the start
of his young career he won fans throughout town, who praised everything from his cornmeal-crusted calamari to his
lobster-watermelon salad.
He was drawn to cooking from the time he was a child, said his sister, Monica Montoya. “If we were at breakfast, he
wanted to know what we were going to have for lunch and then for dinner. He always wanted to watch the cooking
shows.” He originally studied nursing before switching to culinary school. “He just loved it so much, and he lived for
that,” said his sister. “His favorite thing was watching people enjoy his food.”
In addition to his sister, he is survived by his parents, of Silver City, N.M.; younger sister Nicole Montoya of Silver City;
grandparents Isidra Padilla and Ricardo Padilla of Tyrone, N.M., and many aunts, uncles and cousins.
Memorial donations can be made at Ovio Bistro, 4752 California Ave. S.W., Seattle, WA 98116. The restaurant is also
keeping a memory book for friends and patrons that will be sent to his family.
5 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
NEWS YOU CAN USE
Special Seasonings
At the association’s Hospitality Awards Gala, The Washington
Restaurant Association honored industry members for their
outstanding commitment to community, service and hospitality.
Lifetime Achievement Award: Marc Zanner, Great
Western Dining. Humanitarian of the Year: Diane Symms,
Lombardi’s Neighborhood Italian Restaurants. Host of the
Year: Michael Carr, Schwartz Brothers Restaurants, and
Lisa Hooke, Senor Froggy Restaurants, Spokane. Supplier
of the Year: Tom Buckley, Caffe Vita.
Gordon Brothers Cellars, has recently received Best of
Class honors at two international competitions. The winery
took a Best of Class Gold at the L.S. County Fair for Bordeaux
Blends $30.01 and up and a Best of Class for red Blends $18
and up at the Gold Challenge Wine Competition.
Cascadia’s catering manager, Nancy Neyhart, stared in an
episode of A&E’s “Move This House.” She agreed to place her
move into her new home into the hands of strangers – from
packing to furniture placement to painting. Must have left
more time for her to book parties.
National Notes
Phil Romano, the man behind Romano’s Macaroni Grill and
Fuddruckers, and The Dallas Morning News, have settled a
2004 lawsuit stemming from a restaurant review that Romano
alleged was factually incorrect. The newspaper stands by its
review and the settlement requires neither side to pay damages.
Instead, the newspaper agreed to re-review Il Mulino
New York, the restaurant the disputed review stemmed from.
Culinary resources: “Fresh Mushrooms Your One-stop Source
For the Facts” The Mushroom Information Center. History,
types, storage, buying and handling, cooking methods. For
more information contact 212.420.8808 or www.mushroominfo.
com.
“Inspired Creations for Appetizer Menus” Wisconsin Milk
Marketing Board. Trends, recipes and cheese-inspired starters
for all themes of restaurants. For more information contact
www.foodservice.WisDairy.com.
NorthWest Notes
Portland restaurants Blue House Café and Francisco’s at
the Blue House Café have sparked national attention because
of their cooperative operations. The updated bungalow
on Brighton Avenue serves as the house and home for both
restaurants, with the Café taking charge during breakfast
and lunch day parts and Francisco’s sweeping up with
serving dinner. Both operations have their own chef/owner.
Dirk Yeaton, owns of the Café and the property. Dave Mallari,
chef/owner of Francisco’s, helps Yeaton cover fixed expenses
with his lease which lets Francisco’s not only use the space
but also all the equipment. Obtaining insurance proved to
be a stumbling block. Arranging for each restaurant to have
its own dedicated refrigerated storage was the method to
smooth out the potential of cross-contamination. Stepping
up fire inspections to twice a year was another concession
Yeaton and Mallari made to license their restaurants.
Seattle Magazine recently honored several local eateries for
outstanding “star-worthy” contributions of: cheap sandwiches,
The Saigon Deli; truffle fries, Canlis; after dinner freebies,
Crave; free wine, Tutta Bella, flaming food, Waterfront
Seafood Grill; dessert too pretty to et, 611 Supreme
Creperie & Café; miniburgers, Cascadia; and, yuppie brisket,
Barbacoa. Watering hole winners in the best of categories
included: picking up hotties, Joey’s; nightlife, Paddy Coynes;
artist hangout, The Hideout; girls night out spot, Chapel;
celeb spotting, Earth & Ocean; quiz night, Reading Gaol.
Washington’s eighth federally recognized American Viticultural
Area is the Wahluke Slope, a geographically isolated,
generally south-facing slope of land near the Saddle Mountains
in southeastern Washington. The new 81,000 acre AVA
lies in the center of the Columbia Valley AVA and is bounded
on the west and southern ends by the Columbia River, on the
north by the Saddle Mountains and on the east by federal
lands of the Hanford Reach National Monument. It sits entirely
within the established Columbia Valley appellation with red
wine grapes (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah) making up
80 percent of total 5,205 bearing acreage.
6 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
NEWS YOU CAN USE
6 Northwest Stir - April 2005
Birth Announcements
Portland’s Pearl has another new baby.
Everett Street Bistro, owned and
designed by Kyle Lynch, emerged
from the former Torrefazione space as a
full-service bistro and espresso bar. Executive
Chef Ethan Powell, was previously sous chef and manager
at Andina Restaurant in Portland. He is a graduate of
the French Culinary Institute in New York.
Lynch has also added Fenouil to the Pearl scene. Serving as
KL Design Group’s principal and creative director, he birthed
the 8,500 square foot bi-level brasserie for owners David and
Suzie Regan and Pascal Chureau. Chureau is also executive
chef. The spot is open for Sunday Brunch, lunch and dinner.
On Seattle’s Capitol Hill Scott Simpson has opened Fork.
As with most conceptions, it all began over a very good bottle
of wine. Two Northern Italians, Samuele Lucchese of Genova
and Arlindo Moraes of Bologna, discussed the lack of truly
authentic Northern Italian food in the south Puget Sound area.
Olympia’s Basilico came out of that night.
Alexandria’s on Second closes in its Belltown, Seattle,
location. The owners and some of its dishes now reside at the
new Joanna’s Soul Cafe and Jazz Club serving breakfast,
lunch, dinner and late-night live jazz, with saxophonist Gary
Hammond at 9 p.m. Sunday.
Growing Times: Fidelitas is acquiring a 5-acre parcel of
land on Red Mountain in Benton City, Wash. This gives the
winery a place to call home, while staying true to its terroir.
Moving Times: Café Stellina and Osteria La Spiga have
both announced intent to join Seattle’s 12th & Madison / 12th
& Pike project. The restaurants will move into the historic
Piston & Ring building undergoing renovation along 12th
Avenue on Capitol Hill.
Anniversary Times: Salty’s on the Columbia celebrates
its silver anniversary. Rosebud marks its 12th anniversary.
The Tasting Room is three. Crave turns two.
Ingredient Substitution
Tysan Pierce recently joined Southpark Seafood Grill & Wine
Bar as the restaurant’s sommelier. She brings 10 years of
experience, most recently directing the wine program for the
Heathman Restaurant.
The Seattle Yacht Club has snagged Tom Black as executive
chef. He was most recently at MTM Management’s Alderbrook.
Jeremy McLachlan has been appointed new Executive Chef
of Salty’s on Alki. He comes from a nine-year tenure at Salty’s
on the Columbia in Portland. He worked under the tutelage
of previous Corporate Chef Byron Shultz training in French
techniques. He takes over the toque from Dan Thiessen,
who held the position of Corporate Executive Chef for almost
two years. Thiessen left Salty’s to work in the media (KVI 570
Talk Radio), teach and to open his own restaurant later this
year in Bellevue.
Angie Roberts now tends the fires as Chef de Cuisine at
Flying Fish, Seattle. She comes from Earth & Ocean where
she was executive sous chef
El Gaucho, Portland welcomes Jaime Mansfield as Head
Chef. He has been Sous Chef at the restaurant since 2002.
Before joining El Gaucho’s Mansfield was a chef at Holden’s
Bistro in the Pearl.
26brix in Walla Walla welcomes Michael Kline at Chef de
Cuisine. He comes most recently from The Eiffel Tower
Restaurant in the Paris Las Vegas Casino where he was Sous
Chef under Chef Jean Joho. Former Campagne veteran
Jim German, takes over as bar manager. He was most
recently at Whitehouse Crawford in Walla Walla. Kline replaces
Drew LeTourneau who becomes Sous Chef. German
replaces Mark Morasch behind the mar. Morasch’s National
Guard unit is being deployed to Afghanistan.
The Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance announces the appointment
of Elizabeth Martin-Calder as Executive Director. She
comes from the Portland Art Museum where she directed
marketing and communications strategies. Martin-Calder
succeeds Krista McCorkle Davis, who served as Executive
Director for the Alliance for the past three years.
7 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
FOOD FINDS
El Diablo Coffee on Seattle’s Queen
Anne takes the South of the Border
Mexican-style approach to hot chocolate.
Ibarra chocolate blended with cinnamon
and vanilla and heated just so.
Moonstruck in Portland brings a new
meaning to hot chocolate, dishing up
molten chocolate and dashing it with
cayenne for a caliente hot chocolate.
Besides International style, specific producer
ingredients add to the flavor profile
of the finished beverage. Ephemere
Sauce is a meta-popular ingredient
used at Dilettante in Seattle’s Westlake
Mall. A proprietary bittersweet ganache,
it adds a delicious, opulent note to an
already indulgent beverage.
- Alicia Comstock Arter
Chocolate is hot and the trend is
twisting America’s milk chocolate
loving spirit toward the dark side. As
consumers embrace more Eurostyles
of chocolate, urged on by
nutrition news relating benefits of the
dark chocolate, chocolate emerges
as a decadent drink. Boutique
brands lead the list of offerings, but
big brand powerhouses are seeking
sweet success snapping up
chocolate companies to add to their
stables.
Hip Hot Choco
Prepare for guests questing for drinking chocolate as a morning treat or bedtime
toddy, these spots have:
Portland’s Mio Gelato recently caught
the eye of USA Today and was dubbed
one of the 10 best spots to enjoy true
molten chocolate. The cioccolato caldo,
an Italian-style drink is prepared in a
bain-marie that regularly stirs the thick
chocolate. Some Italian-inspired hot
chocolate recipes call for eggs used as
a thickening agent.
Oh Chocolate! in Seattle’s Madison
Valley swings to the French-side. Their
style of hot chocolate is prepared with
molten chocolate, milk and 40% butterfat
cream, then served with freshly
whipped sweet cream. Other Frenchstyle
followers blend the chocolate with
hot water and sugar.
Northern Exposure
February 2 will wrap-up the eleven
day “Dine Our Vancouver” experience
this season. The promotion, presented
by VISA, offers diners the chance to
sample fare from the city’s best establishments
at unbelievably low prices.
Restaurateurs from more than 100
operations are showcasing three course
meals for C$15, C$25 and C$35.
For more information visit
http://www.vancouver.com/whattoseedo/
dine_out/index.htm.
Fonté Coffee Roaster’s Master Roaster
Steve Smith was one of thirty-two influential
coffee experts from around the world invited
by the Alliance for Coffee Excellence to
grade the new crop of Brazilian coffees in
the prestigious Cup of Excellence competition.
In November, Smith traveled to Pocos
de Caldas, where the semi-finalists were
judged. With the other coffee experts, Smith
graded the Brazilian semi-finalists, the best
the country has to offer, culled from more
than 550 entries.
Wild Side. A brief ray of sunshine last month
prompted a bull sea lion to get out of the water
and bask in the warmth….atop a guest’s car
during lunch service at Salty’s on Alki. Sommelier
Tim O’Brien confronted the wildlife and “urged”
him to return to Elliott Bay.
8 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
BEVERAGE BUSINESS
Wine Futures
By Tim OBrien
How would you like a peek
into the future? You are a
curious person, eager to learn
and to make yourself aware of
changing trends in the world
of wine. You also enjoy wine
so don’t just sit there waiting
for your invitation to visit an
Oregon or Washington winery.
Get out there, others are!
Investors are arriving from all parts of the world because they
too, are curious and eager. They have tasted the efforts of our
pioneer wine makers and they see opportunity and potential.
It is amazing to consider how young the region’s wine industry
is. Thirty years is equivalent to a centimeter on the timeline
of wine. Starting a winery or planting a vineyard is a very risky
and expensive proposition .The financial return is delayed for
years waiting for vines to mature and wine to age gracefully in
expensive oak barrels. Despite of all this the wine industry is
growing rapidly, showing no signs of slowing down. Exciting
times for sure and the best is yet to come.
A large part of the excitement is the uncertainty. No one
knows exactly what will be next bright star in the Oregon or
Washington wine constellation. In Washington’s beginning
there was Riesling then came Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet
and Syrah. Today Riesling is back in the limelight with
vineyards being planted at the request of winemakers looking
for high quality fruit to satisfy a resurgent demand. I was told
by one of the state’s premier wine entrepreneurs that Malbec
has a very bright future in their vineyards. The list of possible
varietals to plant is extensive which provides a perfect
opportunity for us, the all-important consumer, a.k.a. the guy
who pays the bills.
Visiting wineries is where you get that peek into the future.
Seek out the varietals that have not crossed your tasting path.
They are the future. Make the most of your visit by tasting
something new. Many wineries are experimenting with new
plantings that are yielding remarkable results. They don’t
have enough wine to bring today’s tasting room gems to the
general market but you can enjoy them today in tasting rooms
to get that glimpse into tomorrow. Listen to the story that
accompanies each wine and buy those wines, before they
become the next darling of the ratings game and double in
price. When wine is good, they aren’t secrets for long.
The tasting room is also the best place to consider how well a
specific wine compliments food. Hopefully the tasting rooms
provide something to nibble on so you get an idea of the
wine’s compatibility with food. Be sure to taste both white
and red wine. The list of offerings in Oregon and Washington
wineries is much longer today than it was a few years
ago. The success of Syrah, for example, has prompted
many growers to plant other Rhone varietals such as Roussanne
Marsanne Viognier, Morvedre, Cinsaut and of course
Grenache. Italian varieties including Sangiovese, Nebbiolo
Barbera and Zinfandel have also enjoyed some impressive
results in competitions against California’s best. The wine is
there. It’s your move to discover the future.
Tim O’Brien is the Sommelier and Beverage Director for
Salty’s. He is responsible for the three locations: Seattle,
Tacoma and Portland.
9 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
CALENDAR
Shows & Festivals
Through March 3
2006 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine
Festival, Vancouver, B.C. For moreinformation contact
604.873.3311 or www.playhousewinefest.com.
April 30 – May 2
Northwest Foodservice Show, Tacoma Dome. For more
information contact www.nwfoodserviceshow.com,
503.582.9482 or 800.645.7350.
Social – Wine Events
February 1
“Four to Six” Old World vs New World Pinot Noir Tasting,
The Art Institute of Seattle. $12pp. For more information
contact Dieter Schafer, www.ais.edu or
WineDieter@cs.com .
February 4
Wines for Your Valentine’s Dinner, The Art Institute of
Seattle. $65 pp. Washington and French selections, food
and wine pairing. For more information contact Dieter
Schafer, www.ais.edu or WineDieter@cs.com .
February 8
“Four to Six” Washington Syrah Tasting, The Art Institute
of Seattle. $12pp. For more information contact Dieter
Schafer, www.ais.edu or WineDieter@cs.com .
February 18
Educate Your Palate: Washington Wine Class, The Art
Institute of Seattle. $65pp. For more information contact
Dieter Schafer, www.ais.edu or WineDieter@cs.com .
February 15
“Four to Six” Gems from Southern France Wine Tasting,
The Art Institute of Seattle. $12pp. For more information
contact Dieter Schafer, www.ais.edu or WineDieter@cs.
com .
March 1
“Four to Six” Washington Merlot Tasting, The Art Institute
of Seattle. $12pp. For more information contact Dieter
Schafer, www.ais.edu or WineDieter@cs.com .
Through February 3
The Rover’s Cookbook 5-Course Tasting Menu,
Rovers, Seattle. $90 two people For more information
contact 206.325.7442.
February 1
Meet the Artists Dinner Series, Mitchelle’s, Seattle.
$50pp with wine. For more information contact
Info@Mitchellis.com or 206.623.3883.
February 10 – 14
“Love American Style,” Red Star Tavern and Roast
House, Portland. A la carte menu. February 12 – 14
heart shaped cookies to decorate. For more information
contact 503.222.0005.
February 23
Devin Derby Dinner, Waterfront Seafood Grill, Seattle.
Eight wineries featured, 4-courses. $55pp. For more
information contact 206.956.9171.
Daily
Cascadia for $25, Cascadia, Seattle. Threecourse
menu, $25pp. For more information contact
206.448.8884.
Prix Fixe
10 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
CALENDAR
Charities
February 10
Mardi Gras! To benefit Renton Technical
College. Tickets $50. For more
information contact 425.235.2352,
ext. 5728.
March 4
Classic Wines Auction, Oregon Convention
Center, Portland. For more
information contact 503.972.0194 or
visit www.classicwinesauction.com.
March 11
15th annual Washington Wines Festival
Auction, Columbia Tower Club,
Seattle. Event benefits the Yakima
Valley Farm Workers Clinic and
Washington Wine Education Foundation.
Tickets $400 pp. For more
information contact 206.236.6167.
February 2-6
American Culinary Federation,
Regional Conference, Hawaii. For
more information contact www.
washingtonstatechefs.org.
February 13
Washington State Chef’s Association
meeting, Emerald
Queen Casino, Tacoma. For more
information contact Steve Lammers
slammers@oc.ctc.edu or
360.475.7571.
February 21
Shellfish & Crustaceans Cooking
Glass with Executive Chef Charles
Ramseyer, Ray’s Boathouse,
Seattle. $35 pp inclusive. For more
information contact 206.789.4130
ext. 220.
Education
March 21
Sexy Syrah Wine Tasting, Salty’s
on Alki. Event benefits FareStart.
Tickets $30pp. For more information
contact www.farestart.org,
info@farestart.org, 206.443.1233 or
winelover99@comcast.net.
March 21
16th Annual Anthony’s Oyster Olympics.
Event benefits Puget Soudkeeper
Alliance. Tickets $85. For more
information contact 206.297.7002 or
www.pugetsoundkeeper.org.
Sip a vibrant Pinot or a buttery Chardonnay February 24 through 26 at
Portland’s Yard, Garden & Patio show. Tucked behind a cascading 20-food
waterfall, at the end of a wooded pathway 20 Oregon wineries will offer up
wines by the glass, bottle or case. The pacific Northwest Wine Club will
be on hand as wine guides. Participating wineries include: August Cellars,
Champagne Creek, Chateau Bianca Winery, Chateau Lorane Winery,
Harris Bridge Vineyard, Hillcrest Vineyard, Kathken Vineyards, Mia
Sonatina Cellars, Silvan Ridge Winery and Willamatte Valley Vineyards.
NorthWest Stir readers are offered an opportunity to adopt an oak tree
growing in a French truffière. The anticipated outcome is that the tree will
provide the correct environment to produce the genuine article, the Périgord
black truffle, Tuber melanosporum, not the utterly gastronomically inferior,
almost worthless, summer truffle, Tuber aestivum. Many tree “parents”
visit their tree and stay in the truffiére’s house owned by Dick Pyle, a
British ex-pat now living in Le Gers. Visit www.truffle-tree.com for more
information. On the order form use the “media code” STIR to qualify
for your discount from $239 to $199.
11 Northwest Stir - Feb. 2006
TALK OF THE TABLE
Rhone Varietal Harvest
Bears Fruit
By Rusty Eddy
(Ukiah, Calif.) – In contrast to reports about the large 2005
grape crop in California, a few Rhone Ranger winery members,
from Idaho to Paso Robles, report that their yields were
lower this year than last.
While some of those lower yields can be attributed to shatter,
Tracey Brandt from A Donkey and Goat Winery said that their
“Mendocino County Syrah was off by 50% this year, not just
because of weather, but because a bear ate over a half ton
of the fruit.” Winemaker David Lake in Washington has the
same problem, and noted that the vineyard block “looked as
if it had been mechanically harvested. Fortunately, the bears
had not seen the movie Sideways and showed a strong
preference for Merlot!”
Also in Washington State, Wilridge Winery winemaker Paul
Beveridge noted that yields were down “20% to 30%, but
flavor concentration is great.” Hogue Cellars director of
winemaking agreed, noting that “this vintage lacked the heat
spikes we often experience; the even ripening developed
plenty of concentrated flavors.”
On California’s Central Coast, Chuck Carlson of Curtis Winery
had a crop like many other California winemakers: “We
experienced good to above normal yields on all of our Rhone
varietals, in fact, we had to drop fruit mid-season to ensure
proper ripening. I’m pretty excited by what I’m tasting in the
barrels.” Jason Haas at Tablas Creek Winery said that their
“yields were up about 20%, and I know that this was moderate
for Paso Robles wineries.”
Even vintners who had lighter than usual crops said that picking
started later than normal. Like Forsyth, many mentioned
the lack of heat spikes and the contribution that the long,
relatively mild growing season made to flavor development.
Charene Beltramo of Cline Cellars in Sonoma, spoke for many
of the winemakers when she noted that, “the red wines have
great color extraction and acids are higher than in previous
years.”
Many winemakers waxed poetic about their acid levels.
Bayard Fox from Renard, who describes his wines as
“ballerinas that took up kick boxing,” compared 2005 to a
European vintage:
I have been yearning to experience another European
vintage with full knowledge I would never be able to do so
living in the same Northern hemisphere. And yet, this year
we have experienced an equivalent of continental climate
with cooler, moister conditions, and hence higher acids with
out the outrageous sugars. Essentially, I got my continental
vintage without paying for the plane ticket!
By varietal, wineries report that Syrah yields varied widely be
region (and bears), but that the late start of harvest combined
with slow ripening developed “classic” flavors and balance.
Other Rhone Ranger reds garnered the same adjectives from
winemakers: Grenache and Mourvedre look “exceptional.”
Petite Sirah is “darkly colored, peppery and spicy.” Dan Lee
at Morgan Winery simply said, “quality is awesome across
the board.”
Viognier yielded ripe, clean and uniform flavors from Idaho
to California, with some winemakers reporting intense varietal
flavors at lower Brix than usual.
For other whites, the reports were similar. Roussanne,
Grenache Blanc and Marsanne all developed ripe flavors
at lower Brix than usual. And in obscure Rhone whites,
Tablas Creek Winery in Paso Robles expects to pick its first
crop of Picpoul Blanc, an ancient grape from the Languedoc
region of France, in early November.
Norman Silverman from Silver Pines Vineyard in Sonoma,
summed up 2005 simply: “it should be a benchmark year” for
Rhone varietal wines.
Rusty Eddy has worked in the wine industry for 30 years. He
is currently co-executive director of the Rhone Rangers and
a partner in Rainmaker Marketing in Ukiah, California. Reach
him at rusty@rainmarket.com.
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